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taste
gavin nazareth reports on the latest food and drink news
HARLAN NIGHTS
Hong Kong's chef to the rich and famous, Harlan G (www.harlang.com) has recently opened H One (Italian silver service), The Box (private dining) and G Bar (a New York-style lounge and bar), a three-in-one venue concept in Central's ifc mall.
Spread over 11,000 square feet, the restaurants join Harlan G's successful stable of three eateries which are famously patronised by Hong Kong's high society.
The venues feature spectacular views of Victoria Harbour and a wine cellar boasting some of the world's best vintages - a Harlan signature.
"Great wine is like sex," Harlan famously said. "The more you have, the more you want." Podium Level 4, ifc mall, Central, tel +852 2234-7798
GLOBAL CHEF
Culinary maestro Kong Khai Meng recently joined The Oriental Bangkok's China House restaurant, returning to Asia after a stint in Dubai. A protégé of Jereme Leung, the founding chef of the much-lauded Whampoa Club in Shanghai, Chef Kong now creates classic Cantonese cuisine in his new kitchen.
What is your favourite thai dish?
Tom yum with prawns, although I tone it down since I don't like spicy food.
Now that you're cooking Chinese food for Thai tastes, have you had to adapt any of your recipes?
People in Thailand prefer sweeter flavours, while in China, they prefer stronger ones. But I haven't really changed the dishes too much. I have added Thai flavours to some of the dim sum (small servings of dumplings and buns) dishes though.
In what way?
Traditional rice rolls are topped with tom yum prawn soup. Siew mai dumplings are filled with spicy minced pork and holy basil and crispy man tou buns are stu?ed with red curry chicken.
Any must-try recommendations?
Definitely the hot and sour soup with fresh lobster ( right ), hand-pulled noodles with assorted seafood in a hot and sour broth, and pan-fried beef tenderloin with pistachio nuts. For dessert, go for the chilled mango and pomelo soup with seasonal fruits and sago pearls.
Try Chef Kong's suggestions at China House, The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue, tel +66 (0)2 659-9000, www.mandarinoriental.com
BAR NONE
If you're feeling a little lost in translation in Fukuoka, then head to In The Park , a multi-storey bar and bistro where sta? speak English, French and Japanese.
It's the beautiful counter sculpted from a single tree trunk ( left ) that is the centre of attraction at this chic zen venue.
Seated here, you can quench your thirst from the extensive list of cocktails, wines, whiskies and Italian co?ees, or nibble on the wide selection of cheeses, homemade herb bread, and other light snacks. The place has a huge following of devoted regulars. 3-7-3 Towers Tenjin Building, Tenjin, tel (0)92 732-4747, www.inthepark.jp
NEW AND NOTED
The restaurant at the new hotel, Boddhi Tree Aram (70 Street 244, Chhay Chomneas, Phnom Penh, tel +855 (0)11 854430, www.boddhitree.com ) serves a wide range of western and local Khmer cuisine, with some imaginative specials. Roasted aubergine, goat cheese and mango cinnamon chutney sandwich, anyone?
Across the map, a new bakery-deli has opened its doors in Jinghong. Wangtianshu Deli (Mengzhe Road East, tel +86 (0)691 212-1546 ) offers delicious sourdough bread, cheesecakes, homemade ice-cream, and thin-crust pizzas, among other things. Regulars swear by their banana bread, whose secret ingredient, says owner Gerard Burgermeister, is "lots of heart".
Already one of London's most renowned and talked-about restaurants Zuma (Level 5-6, The Landmark, Central, tel +852 3657-6388, www.zumarestaurant.com ) is all set to make its debut in Hong Kong's The Landmark Building in May. Zuma brings to the island a sophisticated twist on the Japanese izakaya -style of informal dining.
ZEN KITCHEN
Planning on cooking Japanese food? Heed the advice of culinary expert and lifestyle guru Harumi Kurihara . The author of the critically-acclaimed book Harumi's Japanese Cooking (latest edition available on www.amazon.com ) says the key aspects of Japanese cuisine are variety, seasonality and presentation. The book celebrates using seasonal produce, embracing di?erent textures, flavours and ingredients, and keeping dishes looking uncomplicated, but beautiful.
TEA THREE
High tea is all the rage in Bangkok. Indulge that four o'clock hunger pang with these scrumptious aft ernoon offerings.
Al Majlis: Chill out in a room inspired by Arabian Nights or commune with nature astride comfy beanbags in the grassy courtyard. Kaftan-clad staff serve the highly recommended Al Majlis pita pizzas or the divine Rosella pork salad. The delicious high tea set (300 baht) includes tea, scones, sandwiches and cake. 83/8 Ekkamai Soi 12, tel +66 (0)2 392-2345
Erawan Tea Room: Classic retro meets contemporary at this tearoom overlooking the revered Erawan Shrine. The afternoon tea menu includes 12 Thai appetisers, scones, a mini chocolate pudding, and a pot of tea. And at 199 baht, you really can't go wrong with this treat. Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, Ploenchit Road, tel +66 (0)2 254-1234
Pandanus Bar Bistro: This funky joint features teas with names like Ceylon Roehampton, Des Courtisanes and Un Gentleman a Deauvilles. Foodwise, it serves everything from thai to Italian and French. Prices start at 100 baht per dish. 50 Sathorn Soi 1, tel +66 (0)2 287-4021
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