VIETNAM
Destination | Ho Chi Minh
Country Code: +84
Currency: Vietnamese dong
FROM THE AIRPORT
Taxi: There is always a fleet of taxis
outside the arrivals terminal waiting
to pick up passengers from incoming
flights. Ho Chi Minh City Centre is
approximately 30 minutes from Tan
Son Nhat airport and should cost
about $4-5 or VND60,000 by meter.
TABLE TALK
Cheap chic: Chao Thai This petite, two-tiered restaurant is quintessentially Thai – intimate tables, embroidered silk wall hangings, decorative elephant carvings and a scrumptious menu that is sure to satisfy every palate. Dishes cost around VND50,000 (US$3), and the VND80,000 (US$5) lunchtime set menu is definitely worth sampling. 16 thai Van Lung, tel (0)8 824-1457
Mid-range magic: Warda Damascan chef Nouman has drawn up a sizzlingly exotic menu of tempting specialities at this Middle Eastern-themed restaurant. Succulent meats, aromatic spices and fragrant rice make for some really mouth-watering dishes – try the wedding medallion chicken, mezze-style tapas and substantial koft a kebab , each authentically served by friendly, fez-toting staff . 71/7 Mac Th i Buoi, tel (0)8 823-3822
Gourmet: Mandarin Set in a large, tastefully-restored colonial villa, this upmarket eatery is perfect for discerning diners in search of authentic Vietnamese cuisine. Taster menus blending a variety of dishes start at around US$49. 11A Ngo Van Nam, tel (0)8 822-9783
AFTER DARK
Cocktail hour: Manna The new kid on the bar block, chic loft lounge Manna has a well-stocked wine cellar, classic cocktails and live music or guest DJs laying down smooth grooves every night. Arrive before 9pm to take advantage of half-price drinks. 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, tel (0)8 823-3978
Late night: Q Bar Still Ho Chi Minh's only late late night venue, Q bar's low-level lighting, cosy cubbyholes and energetic soundtrack make it the leading haunt for local night owls who have the energy to keep going. Closing times vary, but it's not unusual for the subterranean chambers to remain packed until 5am. Under the Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, tel (0)8 823-3479
HOT SPOTS
Ton That Thiep Street: Running between Nguyen Hue and Le Loi streets, this centrally-located street is home to a range of boutique shops selling everything from clothing to kitsch collectables, as well as a block of distinctively stylish bars and restaurants – Gara Apparel Boutique, Temple Club and Fanny's Ice Cream Parlour are just a few examples that share this chic address.
Cong Vien Van Hoa Park: Ho Chi Minh City is one of the busiest cities in the world, and this serene oasis on Nguyen Th i Minh Khai street is a great place to escape the heat and tra?c. As the temperature drops, the park transforms into an alfresco gym, and locals turn out en masse for their daily exercises and gossip. Loosen up and join them in the fluid motions of tai chi . The two-hour classes start at 4am and 4pm every day.
INSIDER TIPS
Massage on wheels: If the knots in your muscles are bothering you, listen out for the mobile masseur – the tin rattle on his handlebars advertises his approach. Th e best place to find them circling is around Pham Ngu Lao. For VND20,000-30,000, they will hop off their bikes and spend an hour kneading out those aches and pains.
BODY & SOUL
Saigon Spa: Housed within an elegant colonial setting, you can choose from either a relaxing herbal bath or jacuzzi to soak away daily stresses, followed by a tempting selection of rejuvenating body scrubs, massages, wraps and beauty treatments. The complimentary speedboat pick-up from the city is an added bonus as well. 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong Street, Th ao Dien Ward, District 2, tel (0)8 744-2222
BOUTIQUE BEDS
Norfolk Hotel: The Norfolk's understated boutique charm has been attracting both leisure and business travellers since the early '90s. The simple earth-toned rooms are both warm and welcoming, and a solid reputation for good service is quite likely the secret to its continuing success. 117 Le Th anh Ton, tel (0)8 829-5368, www.norfolkgroup.com
DAY TRIPPING
Vung Tau : For sun-worshippers seeking the ocean breeze and a place to go swimming, the beach resort of Vung Tau is an easy and accessible choice. About 130km southeast of the city, this busy peninsula is packed on Saturdays and Sundays, but blissfully peaceful in the middle of the week. Expect the usual trimmings – a wide selection of restaurants, hotels and shops, and a lively night-time buzz as residents motor out of the city limits for the weekend.
IN THE KNOW
The street-roaming youngsters tapping metal or wooden bars aren't practising for an upcoming percussion role or some theatrical performance – the distinctive clinking sound is a signal that there's a mobile noodle van, or mi go stall nearby. For about VND5,000, they'll happily bring back a piping hot bowl of noodles for you in no time.
Updated by Gemma Price
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