THAILAND
Destination | Sukhothai
Country Code: +66
Currency: Thai baht
FROM THE AIRPORT
 Bus: Bangkok Airways runs a bus service from the airport into Old and New Sukhothai to hotels and guesthouses. Cost ranges from 120 to 250 baht.
Minivan: Mini-vans can be arranged at the airport or through individual hotels and guesthouses at the time of booking – though this may cost more than the Bangkok Airways bus.
TABLE TALK
Cheap chic: Sukhothai Noodles Visit the numerous small streetside restaurants and ask for the Sukhothai noodles, a tasty blend of rice noodles mixed with crispy pork, garlic, green beans, coriander, chilli and peanuts in a broth flavoured with dark soy sauce.
Mid-range magic: Umphai Pachana Some of the best food is found in the least conspicuous places. At the top of the list is a Chinese restaurant in New Sukhothai called Umphai Pachana. The speciality is ca-moo , a braised pork leg stewed in Chinese spices. The well-known eatery is located on a side road off the main Charodvitheetong Road.
Gourmet: Dream Café Located in downtown New Sukhothai within a charming rustic old thai house, Dream Café serves up a good selection of Thai and Western dishes. There is also a small guesthouse at the back. 86/1 Th anon Singhawat, tel (0)55 612801
HOT SPOTS
Sukhothai Historical Park: Th is World Heritage Site was the original capital of the first Siamese kingdom. Surrounded by two moats and bridged by four gateways, the old walls contain the partially restored remains of 21 historical sites, including royal palaces and Buddhist temples.
Si Satchanalai-Chaliang Historical Park and Ban Ko Noi: Set among hills, Si Satchanalai's ruins are larger, less restored and less visited than the usual temple fare, arguably making for a more authentic, cultural experience. Si Satchanalai was an important producer of glazed pottery that was exported to Asia, while Ban Ko Noi features displays of kilns, artefacts and ceramics.
Ban Hat Siaw: Th e Thai Phuan settled here over a century ago from Xieng Khuang in Laos. Famous for beautiful hand-woven textiles, particularly brocade-bordered skirts, almost every stilt house in the village has a loom beneath it. Buy direct from the manufacturers or from the village shops.
INSIDER TIPS
Group tours: A good alternative to touring the Historical Park is to get out and about on a bicycle tour. Sign up for group rides at Ban Thai guesthouse where owner Ronnie leads a tour through part of the town, and through rice fields and quiet countryside. Or break out on your own – all you need is a mountain bike, map and backpack. 38 Pravet Nakhorn Road, tel (0)55 610163 or (0)55 612519
Bike about: For those who are more daring, small 100cc motorbikes can be rented in several shops outside the entrance to the Historical Park. At 150 baht per day, it is an economical and relaxed way to cruise through the forested side roads and the outlying temples of the Old City.
BODY & SOUL
Ananda Museum Gallery Hotel: Th ere are plenty of traditional massage shops in Sukhothai, but dedicated day spas are scarce. There is one at this charming three-star hotel, which blends traditional Sukhothai design – including a private collection of aged Asian ceramics – with more contemporary amenities. 10 Moo 4 Bantum Muang, tel (0)55 622428
BOUTQUE BEDS
Tharaburi Resort : Several small and unpretentious resorts are springing up in the countryside just outside of Old Sukhothai, and this is one of the best. Rustic on the outside and luxurious on the inside, the thai-style teakwood house has seven bedrooms with mod-cons, with another five stylish suites on the opposite side of the garden restaurant. 321/3 Moo 3, Old City, tel (0)55 697132, www.tharaburiresort.com
Lotus Village: Lush gardens, tall trees and a pond filled with lotus blossoms surround Thai-style teak houses with verandahs, some of which have several rooms, others that are individual bungalows. Th e lobby is filled with artwork and antiques, and has a collection of reading material. Owned by a Frenchman and his Thai wife, there is a touch of nostalgic colonial charm, and always a good cup of espresso or cappuccino waiting to be savoured. 170 Ratchathanee Street, tel (0)55 621484, www.lotus-village.com
DAY TRIPPING
Phitsanulok: An hour away by bus, this former Siamese capital reigned for 25 years in the mid-1400s. The vibrant city straddles two rivers and is sometimes known as Song Khwae Noi (Two Tributaries). As it is the only Thai city where it is legal to live on a houseboat within municipal boundaries, don't miss dining on one of the floating restaurants on the River Nan. Plan to arrive hungry, as this is a great town for feasting.
IN THE KNOW
There is a decent municipal market in Sukhothai, but there is not much going on in terms of night-life. Where this area truly excels is in providing a heady dose of ancient Siamese culture.
Updated by John McDermott
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