CAMBODIA
Destination | Phnom Penh
Country Code: +855
Currency: Cambodian riel, US dollar
FROM THE AIRPORT
Taxi: Book a pre-paid taxi at a desk by the arrival lounge exit. 8 e half-hour trip into central Phnom Penh costs $7.
Motodup/tuk-tuk: Both can be hired outside the arrival lounge. Although they are cheaper (expect to pay $2-3), they are less comfortable and not recommended if travelling with luggage.
TABLE TALK
 Cheap chic: Pho Fortune Authentic Vietnamese beef and noodle soup at rock-bottom prices are the main attractions at this simple café located close to the riverfront. 11 Street 178, tel (0)12 871753
Mid-range magic: La Volpaia This elegant trattoria near the post o? ce is gaining a reputation for some of the city's best pizzas, but there is a good range of pasta too and a varied selection of reasonably-priced wines. 20-22 Street 13, tel (0)23 99273 9
Gourmet: Topaz Now in a new location in the southern part of town, you'll find sophisticated French cuisine at a price to match here. A popular dining option with diplomats and business people, Topaz is consistently rated as one of Phnom Penh's top eateries. 182 Sothearos Boulevard, tel (0)12 333276
AFTER DARK
Cocktail hour: Talkin' To A Stranger Deservedly popular with a varied expatriate crowd, the peaceful garden setting is the perfect place to unwind with a couple of cocktails after a long day at work. 21B Street 294, tel (0)12 798530
Late night: Riverhouse Lounge Panoramic river views and an eclectic mix of hip hop, house and retro tunes make this a popular venue for expats and young Khmers alike to shake their booty and have a good time into the early hours of morning. 6 Street 110, tel (0)23 220180
HOT SPOTS
Street 278: Known colloquially as the Golden Mile, due to the preponderance of businesses with “Golden” in their name, this popular street offers restaurants, bars, art galleries, clothing stores, and even spas. There is a variety of reasonably-priced eateries serving Khmer, Thai, Indian and Western cuisine (even fish and chips), including a couple of bars to chill out in until the early hours. Nearby Wat Lanka is one of Phnom Penh's five original pagodas, founded in 1422. Used as a storehouse by the Khmer Rouge, it was fortunate to have survived the regime and, now restored to its former glory, the temple still plays a very important role in Khmer Buddhism. Street 278 runs from Monivong Boulevard east to Street 51.
INSIDER TIPS
Get connected: You'll never be too far from an internet café, with prices ranging from US$0.50-$1 an hour – you generally get what you pay for, and the extra charge will get you faster access and air-conditioning too, the latter invaluable in the hotter months. If you have your own laptop, there are many places where you can use it. Several joints near the riverside off er free Wi-Fi, but they may request that you buy a cup of coffee before you go online. Be careful of viruses, especially if you use a flash drive, and use the anti-virus scanners that most cafés have on their computers.
BODY & SOUL
Tai chi: This is a popular pastime for many Phnompenhoise, especially before dawn, when hundreds often congregate in front of the Royal Palace near the riverfront to enjoy this traditional Chinese exercise. Designed to reduce stress and promote relaxation of both mind and body, tai chi comprises 108 intricate exercise sequences performed in a relaxed, flowing fashion over a half hour or so. If you happen to be out and about before sunrise, don't miss this fascinating insight into Asian life.
BOUTIQUE BEDS
Scandinavia Hotel: After a recent change of ownership, this boutique hotel now includes a great swimming pool in a lush garden, and boasts its own art gallery. For those who enjoy the finer side of culture, look out for exciting exhibitions from both local and international artists on show here. 4 Street 282, tel (0)23 214498, www.hotel-scandinavia-cambodia.com
DAY TRIPPING
Phnom Tamao Wildlife Centre: This zoological garden and wildlife sanctuary set within 2,500 hectares of protected forest is home to over 80 species of Cambodian animals rescued from the illegal wildlife trade. The centre itself covers 70 hectares and includes natural wildlife enclosures, an animal hospital, a walkthrough enclosure (where you can interact with animals), and a wildlife museum. Located an hour south of the city, the entrance fee costs US$2 per person. Takeo Province, tel (0)12 842271, www.cambodianwildliferescue.org
IN THE KNOW
Taxis are scarce in Phnom Penh, but tuk-tuks (passenger wagons pulled by a motorbike) are plentiful. Expect to pay at least $2 to go anywhere, or an average of $15 for the day. It is always advisable to settle the price in advance. While most drivers speak English (or some other languages), it is a good practice to ask your hotel to write directions to your destination(s) in Khmer.
Updated by Cambodia Pocket Guide (www.cambodiapocketguide.com)
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