THAILAND
Destination | Trat
Country Code: +66
Currency: Thai baht
FROM THE AIRPORT
Bangkok Airways mini-buses are on hand at Trat Airport to take you to your accommodation on Koh Chang for 280 to 350 baht, including ferry transfer. Ferries depart at 45-minute intervals. The entire journey takes about an hour. Call (0)8 6563-8889/3932-5775 to book.
TABLE TALK
 Cheap chic: Tonsai Thai It’s hard to miss this treehouse, perching in a huge banyan tree on the opposite side to White Sands beach. With wooden seating around the tree’s massive trunk and a shoes-off policy, the place is laid-back and atmospheric. The service is relaxed, but the cocktails are potent, and the Th ai food is simple and tasty. White Sands Beach, tel (0)89 895-7229
Mid-range magic: Porn Restaurant To stroll along the beach to Porn Restaurant is to step back in time to an era before the quiet island experienced an influx of tourists. Surrounded by quaint bamboo huts with picturesque inhabitants, this slightly off-the-beaten-track location makes a good spot to relax and wile away an aft ernoon with a bottle of Big Chang beer. Kai Bae Beach, next to Sea View Resort, tel (0)81 615-7082
Gourmet: Just Thai Impeccable service and perfectly cooked dishes make the Amari hotel’s Just Th ai restaurant a winner. Dishes are low in chilli, yet full of flavour – the soups are outstanding, and so are the creative starters. Amari Emerald Cove Resort, Had Kai Bae, tel (0)39 552000
AFTER DARK
Cocktail hour: Oodie’s Place The island’s most cultured nightspot in the heart of the White Sands strip attracts groups of foreign tourists for its nightly live bands from 10pm to 1am, a rolling call of funky blues and rock. Enjoy drinks, great food and some really cool tunes. Had Sai Khao, tel (0)818 531271
Late night: Sabay Bar Koh Chang’s busiest bar starts warming up at 9pm when a live band rolls out an assortment of popular pop songs to get the party going, and becomes a raucous mass of dancing young people by 11pm. The tempo rises when the DJ turns up the heat with harder beats at 1am. Had Sai Khao, tel (0)39 551098
HOT SPOTS
White Sand Beach: Don’t be put off by the touristy look of the stores along the road around White Sand Beach. They do sell the usual tourist fare, but there are some great bargains to be found if you look hard enough. Wooden handicrafts are usually handmade – look for delicate carvings. Colourful bikinis are great value for money, for around 120 baht. Just rummage around and don’t forget to haggle!
INSIDER TIPS
Taxi savvy: Get around the island on one of the open-backed, jeepney-style taxis that frequent the main road. Just stick out your arm and hop on – some of them have got “taxi” signs on top. It costs about 50-250 baht, but these taxis only go up and down the main road, so any destination a little off means a short walk. The other alternative is to get your hotel to book a taxi. It may mean paying a bit more and booking in advance, but they will take you from door to door.
BODY & SOUL
Sivara Spa: At 3,000 baht for a 90-minute Manajri package (comprising body scrub and oil massage), it’s a tad pricier than other places, but you are guaranteed to get some serious pampering in a supremely inviting environment. Don’t miss this wonderfully refreshing treat for tired bodies and aching muscles that are crying out to be kneaded. Amari Emerald Cove Resort and Spa, Klong Prao Beach, tel (0)39 552000
BOUTIQUE BEDS
Sea View Resort and Spa Koh Chang: Located on Kaibae Beach, this resort offers a contemporary take on classic Th ai design by the beach, plus international and authentic Thai cuisine at the Sunset Terrace Restaurant. It is also featured in this year’s Tourism Authority of Th ailand’s “Unforgettable Thailand – 80 Unforgettable Accommodations” top choices. Kaibae Beach, tel (0)18 307529, www.seaviewkohchang.com
Ramayana: Situated among a cluster of upscale resorts, the bungalows here pack many luxurious wooden rooms – darkish, varnished furniture and floors – as well as an outstanding spa to pamper yourself at. Had Kae Bae, tel (0)39 551033, www.ramayana.co.th
DAY TRIPPING
Scubadive-Thailand: Th e best snorkelling and diving can be enjoyed at a scattering of islets south of Koh Chang, which all boast healthy coral and abundant marine life. Half-day or full-day itineraries are available from a number of operators – one of the best is Scubadive-Thailand. Ban Bang Bao, tel (0)39 558028, www.koh-chang-divers.com
IN THE KNOW
A grilled seafood dinner by the beach is a quintessential holiday experience, yet some develop stomach malaise from eating defrosted and re-frozen seafood. One precaution against this is to ensure your fish is thoroughly grilled; another is to choose places that are busy (so the seafood is used up and never re-frozen).
Updated by Madeleine Ensor
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