LAOS
Destination | Luang Prabang
Country Code: +856
Currency: Kip, US dollars and Thai baht
FROM THE AIRPORT
 Hotel mini-bus: Higher-end hotels have a shuttle service to and from the airport, costing around $5 and taking 10 minutes.
Tuk-tuk: These can be arranged at the airport desk. One tuk-tuk costs 50,000 kip (the equivalent of $5). is is a fl at rate for up to fi ve people, to any destination.
TABLE TALK
Cheap chic: Tamarind
Go on a gourmet tour of Laotian cuisine that features creative drinks and tasting plates at this charming restaurant. Take the flavours of Laos home via cookbooks and packs of dried ingredients. Open for lunch and only by appointment for evenings. Ban Vat Nong, tel (0)20 777-0484
Mid-range magic: Blue Lagoon Café
Located in a beautiful tropical garden, Blue Lagoon serves a mix of Western and Asian dishes. For a taste of Switzerland, try the dishes served with rosti. The famous local dish, or lam (stewed aubergines flavoured with dill) is a delicious experience for your taste buds and not to be missed. Ban Choumkhong, tel (0)71 253698
Gourmet: The Apsara
Overlooking the Nam Khan River, The Apsara is a stylish synthesis of all things Indochine. Two can share their signature fish in tamarind sauce which astounds the tastebuds with sensational mixed flavours of fresh herbs. Finish off with a decadent dish of profiteroles dripping with chocolate and vanilla. Ban Wat Sene, Kingkitsarath Road, tel (0)71 254670
AFTER DARK
Cocktail hour: Lemongrass
Chill out on the private riverside terrace at Lemongrass, sipping wine or the house special, vodka coconut cocktail. 01/11 Kaem Khong Road, Ban Xieng Mouan, tel (0)30 514-0092
Live entertainment: Phuang Champa House
This renovated wooded Lao house set in tame jungle right in the heart of town is the perfect setting for a traditional Lao soiree, where dinners start off with baci, a ceremony to appease the spirits. Ban Xiengmouane, tel (0)71 254787
Late night: Maylek Pub
MayLek means wood and metal in Laotian and is the design concept behind this sophisticated watering hole. Pick a sling from a list of Lao-inspired cocktails. Ban Vieng Keo, tel (0)71 252560
HOTSPOTS
The Night Market, Sisavangvong Road: Every evening, local merchants and artisans from an array of ethnic groups line up and unfold their wares onto Sisavangvong Road. e number of hand-woven textiles that are on offer is astonishing. e diversity and quality isn’t top-notch, but the night market offers a chance to pick up bargain-priced silk scarves and wall hangings. Haggle hard.
The Old Quarter: One-time residences of the Royal Family and remnants of Laos’ colonial past make this a charming area to wander through. Golden temples sparkle on almost every corner, and galleries show off handmade paper art and traditional lanterns. In Wat Khily, you’ll see other facets of Laotian history, such as the bomb casings fi lled with fl owers adorning the temple steps. e quarter is vibrant with local life, street food stalls and colonial-style cafés.
Ban Xieng Mene: The short boat ride over the river to Ban Xieng Mene could well be considered time travel, showing you a way of life that has been unchanged for hundreds of years. On the return, climb up to Wat Chomphet, a crumbling old temple with a panoramic vista of Luang Prabang.
INSIDER TIPS
Heuanchan: This public information centre for La Maison du Patrimoine’s Project – which oversees the city’s construction work and restores crumbling colonial architecture – offers data regarding every building inside the designated heritage zone as well as pamphlets on Lao culture. The Wooden House of Villa Xiengmouane, Ban Xiengmouane, tel (0)30 514-0617
Culture Vulture: Fibre2Fabric gallery presents “The Silk Road: From Worms to Nagas”. The exhibition examines village sericulture and the symbolism of motifs. To learn more, take a weaving class or attend a silk seminar. Ban Vat Nong, tel (0)71 254761, www.fibre2fabric.org
BODY & SOUL
The Spa Garden: Located in the heart of the old quarter, this converted Lao-style house offers a diverse range of massages and body treatments. The ambience is pure Lao – slow and beautiful. Ban Phoneheuang, tel (0)71 212325
DAY TRIPPING
The Elephant Park Project: Tiger Trail’s unique elephant sanctuary aims to give retired logging elephants a home whilst offering opportunities to be a mahout for a day. Located opposite Lao Spirit Resort. Ban Jaek, Sisavangvong Road, tel (0)71 252655, www.tigertrail-laos.com
IN THE KNOW
The tradition of giving alms (tak bat) to the monks in the morning is practised by many locals. It is beautiful to watch and says a lot about the way of life here, but the presence of tourists can be disruptive to this peaceful custom. Take photographs from a distance. If you want to participate, prepare offerings beforehand – don’t buy them from hawkers.
Compiled by Joanna Harris
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